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#1
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I rolled down my window (drivers side) and the darn window won't roll back up. The passenger side is okay. Even after playing around with the switch the window won't move. Does anyone have any ideas on how to figure out if its a motor problem or fuse problem?
And if its a motor problem, can I get the motor other than the dealer? |
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#2
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what a strange situation, my 2004 has done it twice, 2nd time today. So I did some research and found an old thread on here. If I roll my drivers side all the way down, it wont come up. Evidentally this happens quite frequently on these cars. So I read the thread, took the door panel off, with key in ignition press and hold the pwer window up button while tapping on the inner door metal at the same time, it worked and the window rolled up. So now I am taking aprt the inner door to look for the reset switch which is on the window module and see if that doesnt work as well. Then I guess I will be buying a new one. But at least my window is up. I can still roll it down halway and get it to go up, just not all the way down
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#3
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Quote:
Last edited by bcgreen; 07-09-2009 at 08:52 PM. |
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#4
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..yes, please inform us this
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#5
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Well, I spent 6 hours taking the drivers door apart and trying to put it back together again. The new motor square piece won't fit into the bracket. It was just slightly off so that I couldn't be the screw holes to line up with the bracket. So I took the motor cover off to move the square center just enough so it would fit. The problem arose when the cover to the motor didn't completely seal. So I screwed it back together the best I could and reassembled the door. When I flipped the switch, the motor was silent but the switch does make a small noise. The noise is not that unusual, its a typical relay sound and it was present when the window stopped functioning. The passenger door switch does not make any sound comparable to the drivers door.
So do you guys think its the switch or the motor? Its apart again because I could get the cover back on the new motor. I've been at it now for a few hours, its just won't close the gap where I put the three screws on the test out the new motor. Its really pissing me off because I could be done by now and the 1/8th inch gap is the only thing holding me back. Motherferrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrer Last edited by bcgreen; 07-11-2009 at 09:55 PM. |
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#6
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To be honest, I think you're in for a new motor. I had a similar problem on my G where the window would go down but every now and then it wouldn't want to go back up. I started poking around and discovered that if I would slam the door (I know it sounds funny) while holding the switch it would go up (in most cases). However; the issue started occurring more and more often until one day that was it. The window stayed down for good. I talked to my mechanic and he was as inclined as I was to believe that the window motor is the culprit. I went online and bit the bullet and ordered a new motor from http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/ . Let me tell you that their price was close to half of what local dealers charge in LA. I paid 197$ including shipping. I think the local dealer was asking for around 350$ and my mechanic said there is no aftermarket as he searched around. Anyhow, sure enough I replaced the motor (couple of hours worth of work) and it worked. I think the guide posted here on the site (DIY area I think) is really helpfull even though at the time I didn't know about this site so I was on my own :D.
Hope this helps... Good luck |
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#7
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I gave up. Its 5:15pm and I've been trying since 10am to put the cap back on the motor and it just won't go back together. Lets see if Kraagen will give me my money back.
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#8
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bcgreen, you have a motor issue. Both windows on a coupe share a single 10A fuse so if the fuse was out you would have problems with both windows. If you want to isolate it beyond that and know for sure it's the motor and not the switch (which I doubt if you hear the relay) use a multimeter. When you have your door panel off unplug the motor. The connector will have 6 wires going to it. You want to plug your test leads into the holes on the side coming from the switch that correspond with the blue and green wires. If you see voltage when the switch is pressed (key in and turned on) you know 100% it's the motor.
As for replacements, the motors are all over the internet. Search "A-1 cardone" or "Infiniti window motor" or combination. Be careful though. I replaced my motor with a refurb from RockAuto.com and the replacement went out less than a month later. I ended up buying one from a dealer in Atlanta who was liquidating their stock. Found them on Craigslist doing a search for "G35 window regulator". You shouldn't have to take apart the motor so avoid that on the next one if you can. If it didn't want to go back together there's three things to look out for: the brushes not being in the way, the screw on the bottom of the motor shaft correctly mating (turn motor as you push down), and the magnets pulling the stator to the case before it's lined up correctly. If the square piece not lining up was the shaft connecting to the regulator pulley just move the regulator up and down until they line up. I wrote the steps I took to replace the motor/regulator here : http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/show...es-5466p2.html. Any questions repy there and I'll try to help. Good luck and hope this isn't too late. |
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#9
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The window motors seem to be an issue with our cars, not just the G35s but the Zs have the same problem. Motor replacement seems to be the only fix....thank God for extended warranty's! I haven't had this problem yet, can't wait!
![]() Gary
__________________
'04 G35C TWILIGHT BLUE Premium * Volks * Michelin PS2s * Stillen * SPC * Richie * Tein * Bilstein * MotorDyne * HKS * Gordee * Kuruma Z * Impul * JDM * Red Line * Nismo * Momo * Hawk * Zymol * SPC * Cusco * SXEXCX * K&N |
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#10
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Window motors and brakes. I've been fortunate enough to have them both!
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