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#1
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I have just bought a 97 q45 and has the check engine light, abs, traction, slip lights on. I checked the codes and it come back with the expected p0330, p0161, and p0141. It had an oddball code at first though. A U3FFF listed as ignition input off.
Any comments on that would be appreciated as this is not listed on the site table. The car runs OK, perhaps a little sluggish. It shifts a little harder than I expected, but acceptable.Do I understand that there are 8 knock sensors? The knock sensor right bank seems like a vague code under those circumstances. How do I know which one of the 4 is causing the error? You have a very informative website, I have read most of the threads on the Q45 and have seen a few threads on the light scenario, but I'm not really interested in replacing a whole bank of knock sensors. I plan on replacing both O2 sensors as they should help mileage and overall performance of the car. Is there a good source for upholstery for the factory seats and arm rests? Mine are mechanically very good, but lack in the visual appeal dept. Also a good source for salvage body parts would be nice as a new bumper skin would make the exterior of my new ride look almost new. Thanks for any help and comments. |
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#2
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P0330: http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0330.htm
P0161: http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0161.htm P0141: http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0141.htm Before replacing the sensors, check the connectors. Sometimes water gets in to the connectors. There was an update harness to prevent that (very expensive repair), but I couldn't find the bulletin. Quote:
Quote:
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#3
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I'm in Northwest Arkansas. I thought maybe there was a good place to buy covers from and I could take them to a local upholstery shop to install. Thanks. Good news on the two sensors vs 8. I had one go bad on an altima I had a while back and I think they are the same sensor if I am reading my parts sheet right. You are talking about the knock sensors having the water problems and not the O2 sensors, correct??
Thanks for the heads up, I will check on that. Have you seen a U3FFF code before? It appears to be hexidecimal except for that U. |
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#4
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OK, knocked out the engine codes, but I still have the slip, ABS, and traction lights on. How do I diagnose what their issue is? Is there a way to pull whatever has set them off without dealership involvement?
Since I'm in the helping mood today, thought I would make a suggestion on the passenger side knock sensor. For what it's worth, I didn't mess with the DS knock sensor at all, but I could see it with this method. There is another hard line that I did not investigate whether I could work around or remove. You can access the passenger side KS by removing the alternator and coolant lines all the way back to the back side rubber hose. If you have the forearms of an 8 year old girl, you might be able to reach it without pulling the hard coolant line, but I'm a pretty big guy at 230 lbs and 6' 1", so out came the hard coolant line. It is also better to remove the throttle cable bracket by three easy access bolts and just laying that out of the way. Plan on replacing the rubber connector hose inside the plenum with a new one. I found it easier to cut the hose (lengthwise over the connector) than to try and unseat that thing from the back hard connector. Even if that is unneccesary for you, do yourself a favor and replace that thing don't reuse. Using a ratcheting box end pull the single bolt holding the KS on and pull the retaining wire carefully from the harness connector. Slide that poorly placed piece of crap out of your car without having removed the plenum as the FSM suggested. VIOLA. I would recommend having one of those extendable magnets available and a flashlight is nice as well. You will have scraped up hands and forearms after this procedure. Obviously install in reverse order. If I have to tell you that there will be coolant spilled when you pull the hard line, don't try this. An old towel strategically placed will avoid having to dig around in nasty coolant as well. Last edited by white97; 06-13-2009 at 07:44 PM. |
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#5
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found in FSM, additional plug under dash had to pull down to expose. Grounded pin 4 and got a code 12 and 61. Corresponding to no issues and actuator motor relay on ABS/TCS respectively. Checked 30A fuse, 7.5A fuse located in engine bay right next to battery, both good. Check all connectors at ABS and TCS unit located at passenger rear of engine compartment. I found oil soaked connections which I traced back to faulty hood support. I cleaned oil from all connections, cleared codes and drove for apporximately 10 secs before lights came back on. I checked for bat voltage on what is called pin 10 in the FSM, I called it the yellow wire after some comparisons to FSM, key off. Had bat voltage as expected. I was pretty sure the relay was the source at this point as after I had unbolted it, I could hear something rattling around in it so I skipped directly to that point. You would be well served to look at the FSM page BR95 for a pin break out and appropriately scratch the pin numbers onto the relay assembly. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1997...997_Q45/br.pdf
with no voltage on the relay, check continuity between 4 and 10, and 41 and 10. There should be no continuity or a digital multimeter may read OL. Since you don't want voltage when checking resistance and you don't want a short, reverse the order listed in the FSM and check resistance between 5 and 8 is approx 100 ohms. If still good, create some jumper wires to put a bat voltage accross 5 and 8.(wont make a difference which is +/-. with voltage applied check for resistance accross 4 and 10 as well as 41 and 10. There should be no resistance or less than 1 ohm if you have a persnikity meter. This is where mine failed. Therefore, I need a new ABS relay unit. Edit: After an extensive part search, the part I needed and described here is called an ABS control module only available from an Infinity or Nissan dealer, not an ABS relay which is available from some parts store and only has 4 pins and previously checked good. Now that I have offered help to those looking for it, does anyone have a source for these aside from the dealer? I would hate to price one at the stealer, but I fear that may be my only option. Last edited by white97; 07-06-2009 at 05:43 PM. |
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#6
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OK, the engine light returned. Codes present: P0141, P0161, and that U3FFF was back. This time, a slightly different scanner picked up that it was ignition signal not present, which solved that mystery for me as there would be none at the time of code reading since the engine was turned off and obviously not sending a timing signal.
On to my obvious question, with new sensors on both sides and the connections obviously looked at quite closely, where else should I be looking. I am fine with changing 02 sensors as they make a difference in mileage and response, and I have no idea when or if they had ever been changed previously. I feel like I am moving at a snails pace. For the record, charging system and battery checked out good. |
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#7
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Sorry for the late response.
I'm glad you fund the problem with the ABS relay. I had that information on an old part of the site, but is no longer accessible. The relay problem is common. With the O2 sensor problem, I suggesting replacing the sensors. Although you can get it aftermarket, I recommend getting the sensors from the dealer. U3FFF code, I search for about 30 minutes the service manual and I could find any information on that code. It probably a code that is trigger by something and the your scanner can't translate.
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#8
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OK, after chasing schematics for a while, I found a common power source in the passenger cabin fuse block for both sensors. Checked it, and sure enough, blown fuse. Number 3, 7.5 amp. All engine codes cleared.
The ABS control module had to be obtained from the dealer at a cost of $35 plus $5 handling. Fixed light issue. |
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#9
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thanks for letting us now
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